Viseu

We were in Viseu a few weeks ago. When we got back Leo got sick and then I got sick right afterwards. I think I’m finally on the mend. It feels like winter has been kicking our butts this year. Poor Leo has been sick more than anyone else.

I first heard of Viseu when some friends we met in Leiria moved there a few years ago. Kyle and I were curious, so we looked into Viseu as a potential place to live. We originally ruled it out because it feels a bit secluded. I don’t love Leiria, but I do love the easy access we have to other places, like Caldas, Obidos, and Nazare. Guimaraes also gives a lot of access to other places, including Braga. So that’s a big negative against Viseu that can be hard to let go of.

Unfortunately it was rainy our first two days there. The first day we got a little bit of a break in the rain, so we went downtown with our friends. There is a nice pedestrian only area and we got to see a bit of it. The second day the forecast was rain all day long and we didn’t want to sit in the hotel, so we drove to Porto. The drive wasn’t bad and we went to a really nice mall there. The kids played for hours in the indoor playgrounds there. The third day there was another break in the weather, so we ventured out a bit more.

Viseu has two malls- one of them is massive and has an ice skating rink and a gym with indoor pools. I thought that I would love that mall and, to be fair, I really didn’t get to see much of it. We went before opening because we were looking for an indoor playground. The mall seemed okay, but I really need to see it when it’s open. I actually liked the second mall a lot, even though people say it’s nothing special. I liked the setting because it’s part indoor, part outdoor, which reminds me of the mall in Aveiro. Plus it’s on a river, so it’s fairly unique.

We went to what I think is the main city park and it was big. There are some hiking trails and there were moments when I felt really alone, even though I knew there were people nearby. It feels really peaceful there and I would love to visit that park again.

One big drawback of Viseu was the driving. People say that drivers in Portugal are aggressive, but luckily that hasn’t really been our experience. Sometimes, sure, but usually it’s on the toll roads or highways. In Viseu they felt a lot more aggressive and it was stressful. I usually enjoy driving, but not in Viseu.

We have managed to narrow down where we want to live to Guimaraes and Viseu. We’re not in a hurry to move, but we also don’t want to stay in Leiria indefinitely. We do really love our apartment here and our landlord, so it makes it hard to move. I know we would love the north though. I love Guimaraes in itself, but I also love the access it gives to so many other places. I love that it’s an easy train or bus ride into Braga. I could definitely see us taking the bus into Braga for some events so we don’t have to try to find parking.

Even though I love Guimaraes, Viseu definitely has some positives. We both agree that it’s a better fit for us than Leiria is. We’re tired of moving and want our next move to be a long term one, so I’m not sure if “better than Leiria” will cut it. The only way to decide is to visit both places. We have only gone to Guimaraes for day trips- we have never stayed the night. When I went to Viseu it was rainy and ugly out, so I didn’t really get to see what it has to offer.

We’re planning on staying at an apartment for a week in each place. Somewhere with a kitchen and hopefully within walking distance of the city center. That’s the only fair way to make a good decision. Sofia’s classes end in the end of June, so I think we are going to try to schedule these trips for 1 week in July and 1 week in August. Lots of things close in August though, so I’m not sure that will work either. We might have to do two one week trips in July.

For now we’re just back to work and back to school- hoping that no one else gets sick this winter.

Peniche

Our babysitter recently moved to Peniche, so she hasn’t come to our house to watch the kids for a while. She has been missing the kids and they have been missing her. She texted to see if we wanted to drop the kids off with her for a few hours in Peniche. Peniche has been on our list of places to visit and somehow we just hadn’t made it over there yet, so we agreed.

I grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area and when I first moved out on my own I moved to Santa Cruz, CA. Peniche brought back some memories of Santa Cruz. Driving around Peniche we saw tons of people in wetsuits carrying surf boards and the main beach seemed really popular. You can’t see it from the road because there are steps leading up to it, but the street lining that beach was the only time we ran into traffic.

We dropped the kids off and headed to the restaraunt that Kyle had picked. It’s called Profresco and he chose it because it’s seafood and has tons of reviews. We decided to splurge since we haven’t gone out in a long time and we got the lobster and prawn rice pot. It was amazing! The restaraunt also has a small seafood market that you see when you first walk in. Everything seems really fresh. The decor was nice but casual. Some people were there in swimsuits, towels, and sandals. I really liked the beach town casual vibe.

After lunch we headed downtown. On the way there we drove through the city walls. I only know Obidos is walled, I didn’t know that Peniche is too! At least some of it. Most of what we did was outside of the city walls, but some of it was inside. We went to a cafe downtown and it had the best cake we have had since moving to Portugal. Actually some of the best cake we have had ever, anywhere in the world. I am very much a pie and cake girl. Pie is my love language 😂

We both love carrot cake and this one came with a cream cheese frosting, which we haven’t had since the US. It was amazing. The second peice we chose because of all the caramel on top. I already love caramel more than chocolate, but caramel in Portugal is one of the best things I have ever tasted. You really can’t go wrong with caramel. It ended up being a Snickers Pie and it was also amazing. I can’t wait to go back there. There was another cake with caramel and chocolate on top and that’s the one I’m going to try next time!

There is a fort in Peniche and we made our way that way, passing lots of restaurants along the way. Most of the them have their menus on display. There is an Italian place with pesto gnocchi and there was another place with California Rolls. I haven’t seen California Rolls since we were in the US. The fort had some beautiful views.

Lastly, we walked along some of the cliffs. The views are amazing. I’m terrified of heights, so I didn’t get very close to the edge. There was a really cool ladder that lets you climb down into the rocks a bit, but I was too scared to even get to it. To get to the ladder you have to walk across a couple of the rocks. It’s near the edge. Obviously you can make it to the ladder without falling off of the rocks, but when I’m really high up I tend to freeze, so my body physically wouldn’t even let me make it to that ladder. Kyle made it there, but he was too tired to climb down it. We found an area that felt a bit safer for me, with some bridges to cross. I loved walking along all of the cliffs and it’s definitely a non kid-friendly activity, so it was time well spent without the kids.

The babysitter took the kids to two different beaches and they had a blast. We are heading back to Peniche in two weeks to do it all again, although maybe with some variations. We will try one of the restaraunts downtown, although I want to go back to the same cafe. Peniche is known for an island off the coast, but I’m not sure if we will have time to go there. I’m excited to go back. Obviously I know that we’re in Portugal and I love Portugal, but something about Peniche reminded me of some of the things I loved about growing up in California. The surfers, wetsuits, rocky beaches, fresh seafood, sandals…I just really loved it.

Even the police station is charming

This week I am taking the kids to a resort in Nazare for two nights. The summer gets harder the longer it goes on, so we’re trying to make it through without completely losing our sanity. Leo is going through something and tells us he hates us every single day when he gets angry. I’m hoping that we can have some fun at the resort. Kyle will stay home and get the house to himself. Then when I get back a day later Kyle is going to take the kids to Aveiro and I will get the house to myself!

Summer Vacation

Right now Kyle and the kids are in Castelo Branco and I finally get a little bit of peace and quiet. I took the kids to Castelo Branco for a day trip a few weeks ago and it’s nice there. I need to go back and see more because we barely got to see it.

Castelo Branco

Summer vacation has been kind of rough, but we’re making it work. It’s so much easier when the kids are split up, so I’m taking Sofia on one more trip before school starts. Sofia has been wanting to go somewhere where the kids will understand what she is saying. I have been wanting to go to London for a long time, so that’s finally on our agenda for August! Obviously the language will be easy and I think that Sofia and I will like the food. I love palaces and gardens and London seems to have plenty of those. I love natural history museums and really miss them. London has one so we will definitely visit. Even better is that it’s free!

When the kids are in school we won’t be able to keep pulling them, so traveling will drastically slow down (for the kids anyway). Kyle and I agreed that we can each go on a 2-3 day trip by ourselves during the week while the other parent stays home. We will probably each take a trip every few months. In September Kyle will be going to Vienna to visit his sister. I’m excited for him. Vienna is on my list- really everywhere is on my list!

My first solo trip is going to be to Seville, Spain. I have been wanting to go but have heard about how hot it is during the summer, so the timing hasn’t been good. I think October or November will probably be a good time to visit. I’m excited to go but it will also be weird. I traveled before I met Kyle, but we met when we were 26. Then we had Sofia and Leo in our mid thirties. Things have been pretty loud and hectic since Sofia was born 5 years ago. It will be really strange to have so much silence and to not be showing the kids stuff. Whenever I go out without them I notice things that they would like and that I wish I could show them. I haven’t traveled completely solo since my early to mid twenties, which was a few decades ago now! I’m a little nervous about solo travel just because I have really come to appreciate the company of my family even though they drive me crazy sometimes.

In a few weeks I’m taking Leo to a Centerparcs in the Netherlands. Leo and I haven’t gotten a trip together, so it will be nice to spend a week with him. I loved Efteling, but that trip was hectic and busy so I am happy for a more laid back trip this time. Then I will have another hectic and busy trip when Sofia and I go to London. The Centerparcs Leo and I are staying at will be really close to a train station and only a 30-minute train ride from Amsterdam. I’m planning on going into Amsterdam for at least a few hours and hopefully we will be able to check out a town or two nearby.

Jump Yard Lisboa

This year has been absolutely insane travel wise. Once the kids are back in school I will have to start saving money, but that should be pretty easy. We have been bleeding money this summer. Entertaining kids is expensive! Kyle has been taking them out while I work and we have been paying a babysitter once a week so that Kyle and I can go out for a few hours. I suppose that all of the travel isn’t helping my savings account either, but after paying the bills I will almost always prioritize traveling. We have finally gotten used to living in Portugal, but it does still feel surreal how much we are getting to travel Europe and that we will get to do so for years to come. Especially now with Kyle and I planning on taking trips for 2-3 days at a time. I will get to see a lot of different places next year.

Alcobaça Monastery

It has been different splitting up to go on these trips. It’s weird making memories with only half of my family, but I also think these trips can help future family trips. Now Sofia and I have a pretty good feel for Efteling, so when we all go as a family we will know what rides we’re excited to take Leo and Kyle on. Sofia and I will get to know London, which will definitely help in future trips because we will know which neighborhoods we do and don’t like. Kyle will know a bit about Vienna so whenever we all go together he can show us around. It has been an adjustment to go with only one kid, but it does make the trips a lot more affordable!

Ponte de Lima

We are back home in Leiria today. It’s nice being back in our apartment, but I already really miss Northern Portugal and all of the things to do around there. The kids keep asking to go back to our hotel, lol. Sofia went back to school today. She really didn’t want to, but it probably helps that tomorrow is her birthday and they’ll celebrate with a cake at school.

We went to Ponte de Lima again a few days ago. The festival was over but they still had a few carnival rides going, so the kids got to go on a few rides. They were so excited.

We walked around a bit on both sides of the bridge. On the side away from the city center is a park with a garden and playground. I love walking over the bridge- it’s so beautiful and peaceful.

We didn’t really venture much from the river. I can’t wait to visit again to walk around some more and see more of the city. We heard quite a bit of English there, which surprised me given how small the city is. I didn’t think it would be on most people’s radar.

Sometime in between our two Ponte de Lima visits I took the kids to the Porto zoo. I can’t see going often, but it’s definitely worth a visit or two. The kids loved it and had a lot of fun. Next month we’re taking them to the Lisbon zoo and I’m really excited about that. We went once when we first moved to Portugal, but the kids were so young then. They’re old enough now to get more excited about seeing the animals.

Now that we’re home it’s time to really start looking for an apartment. We’re both nervous about moving- it will be another big first. I have no idea where to buy boxes, how to hire movers, or any of that. But we will figure it out. We both agree after this trip that it will be worth it. We love Amarante, Viana do Castelo, Ponte de Lima, Braga, Porto, and Guimaraes and we can’t wait to be closer to all of those places.

Amarante

Kyle read about underrated places in Portugal a while ago and Amarante was on the list. He has been wanting to go for a long time, but it’s easier to get to from the north so we weren’t able to go until today.

Amarante

Kyle definitely undersold it 😂 He said that he was hoping to go get a few pretty pictures. It turned out to be even more beautiful than either of us expected. It’s also a little bigger than we expected- not big by any means, but more than just a few pictures.

I’m excited to move north, but I will really miss some places, like Obidos. Amarante is charming and unique, so I will be happy to add that to my list of amazing nearby places.

We walked around Amarante for an hour or so and then we went to Guimaraes. We have only been to Guimaraes once and I remember that I loved it. I might have even liked it more than Braga, I’m not really sure. They’re both great places.

I loved Guimaraes even more when we drove around today. It’s a great combination of new and old. The driving isn’t bad or too stressful. Yesterday I drove around Braga during rush hour and it was a lot busier than I’m used to. Guimaraes was busy in the city center, but not too bad. We went to the city park. It had a great playground and lots of green space.

Kyle really liked Guimaraes today too, so I’m happy about that. Viana do Castelo and Guimaraes are the top contenders to live. Guimaraes is definitely bigger and the location is great. Really easy and quick access to Braga and Porto. And Amarante. We are already looking forward to a day trip there one day when the kids are in school. If you have the chance to go to Amarante I highly recommend it!

Viana do Castelo

We had a change of plans today, so Kyle and Leo decided to stay in Barcelos and Sofia and I headed to Viana do Castelo to check out the city center.

We all went together last week and saw one of the best playgrounds we have seen in a long time. It’s huge and right by the water. The kids had a blast and each kept running off to try something new. We could take them to that playground for years and it would never get old.

I love that there are walking and biking trails around the city, especially next to the water. The city is pretty flat and easy to walk around.

We also checked out the mall, which is attached to the train station. The mall is fine- it’s nothing special but has all of the stores we need. It also has a cute little train playground for the kids.

We also went to Santiario do Sagrado Caracao de Jesus Monte de Santa Luzia and took the elevator up there. The views were amazing and worth the trip.

Today Sofia and I wanted to see the city square and Praca do Republica. It’s really pretty and the pedestrian only area is a good size.

I loved Ponte de Lima and I’m excited to see it again, but I think Viana do Castelo makes more sense for us and will be more likely. It’s bigger and has more housing. When I looked in Ponte de Lima there was literally 1 apartment listed in our budget. Viana do Castelo doesn’t have a huge inventory, but it does have more than Ponte de Lima. It will be tough to find a place but I really hope we can.

Viana do Castelo has lots of water views, great waterfront paths, an amazing playground (and probably many more playgrounds), a mall, a train station, and a super charming downtown. We noticed how warm it was yesterday in Ponte de Lima, but in Viana do Castelo there is a nice breeze. I also love the proximity to Braga and Porto.

I have been on two day trips to Viana do Castelo now and I feel like I have seen the major sites but still don’t have a great feel for the city. I know there was more to downtown than what we saw. I really like the city and I’m excited to get to explore more of it.

Barcelos

We’re on our Northern Portugal road trip. It’s a working trip for me and I worked the past two days. I had today off and we may have gone a little overboard, lol. We are staying in Barcelos, about 10-15 minutes outside of the city center. The house we’re staying in is nice and the property is beautiful, but we don’t really like the area. It’s good to know because Barcelos is in a great location and we were wondering if we would like it. Today we ventured into the city center, which is pretty, but I think the city has been ruined for us (at least for now) due to our first impressions.

The roads in the area we’re in are pretty bad. A lot of them are cobblestone and there are so many blind turns. It feels like every time we turn there is a mirror to help us see if cars are coming. There are some really awkward angles and turns to make. We have driven quite a bit around the Silver Coast and Lisbon area and I haven’t really seen roads like this anywhere else yet.

Before we moved to Portugal I read posts from expats complaining about the driving here. It has never bothered us. We lived in Florida for 7 years and the driving there is some of the worst I have seen. Portugal is much better than Florida driving. Well, in Barcelos we finally are experiencing some of other people’s complaints. In Barcelos we get tailgated no matter how fast we are driving. The speed limit, 10+ over really doesn’t matter. Someone will come along and tailgate you. And they get pretty close. It’s really frustrating and annoying.

Anyway, it has been a few days of that. Also the area we’re staying in is more run down than we have really seen. So we had been having a bad impression of Barcelos for a few days before we got to see the center. Like I said, the center is pretty nice, but Barcelos is not for us. And that’s okay.

After visitng the city center, we decided to head to Ponte de Lima because I have been excited to see it. I love it. It has moved to number one on my places I want to live list. Unfortunately I don’t think it’s going to work out because it seems really hard to find an apartment there, but we can try. We stumbled upon a huge festival there by accident. We’re going to return later this week, after the festival to get a better feel for the city. I’ll do a seperate blog post on Ponte de Lima after our second visit.

We went to Viana do Castelo last week, but we just saw an awesome playground and the mall, so we plan on returning there this week too. I’ll write a blog post about Viana after our second visit too. Tomorrow I think we are heading to Amarante. Kyle has been wanting to visit for a long time because it looks like a beautiful town.

Pombal

The pope is visiting Portugal this week. He’s in Lisbon right now, but things have been pretty busy throughout the country. Two days ago we went to Batalha and the Leiria mall and both were significantly more crowded than normal. On Saturday the pope goes to Fatima, which is only about 15 minutes from us. We plan on staying home because I think there will be way too many people out in the area.

We wanted to go out today, but not have to deal with the crowds. We went to Pombal a month or two ago but we were too tired to really walk around and we knew we wanted to go back again. Since it’s not a touristy city and there aren’t any major religious monuments (that we know of) we figured it was a safe day to go.

It turns out that we had gone the wrong way last time because the city was a lot bigger than we expected. That’s not to say that it’s big, but big enough to kill a few hours. They have a market, lots of cafes, and green space scattered around. They also have a castle at the top of a hill. We weren’t up for walking up the hill, so we’ll have to drive there one of these days.

Before waking around downtown we had lunch just outside the city at a fondue restaurant. The food was pretty good. We haven’t had fondue since we were in the US so it was a fun experience. It got us thinking about fondue and Kyle tried to find some more places. Looks like there are a few in Porto. One of these days we’ll go try one.

We head up north for our trip in just over a month and we’re excited. I can’t wait to see Viana do Castelo and Ponte de Lima. They both look great. And I can’t wait to go back to Braga and Guimaraes. Until then we’re going to do a bunch of day trips around here. We have been meaning to check out Torres Vedras and Peniche, so maybe one of those will be next.

Agueda and the Umbrella Sky Project

Before we moved to Portugal I was looking for some pictures for my blog and I found the picture of all the umbrellas. I finally figured out that the picture was taken in Agueda. It has been on my list of places to visit but we decided to wait until July when they have the art festival AguitAgueda and the Umbrella Sky Project. I’m not sure if the umbrellas are up all the time, but they are definitely up every July.

It’s a cute town and somewhere that I would have explored anyway, but it’s even more charming with all of the umbrellas and colorful things around. We have been lucky because the weather has been on the cooler side this year, so we’re able to enjoy more of the summer festivals and activities this year.

We don’t have a ton of plans for the rest of the year. I have just been working to fund our move to northern Portugal next year. I know I have always talked about Braga and it has always been the place for us, but things have been changing a bit since we got a car. When we moved to Portugal I didn’t want a car, so I wanted a walkable city with lots of things to do and a train station so that we could leave easily. I wanted to be really close to a city center. Braga has all of that.

With a car it’s okay if we’re a little further from city center. I want to be somewhere walkable, ideally within walking distance of a market, a playground, a restaurant, and the kid’s school. In some ways a smaller town might work because things will be closer and ideally easier to walk to. I definitely still love Braga, but I want to look at a few more places. I can’t remember where I first heard of Viana do Castelo, but it looks really cute there and I could see us living there. We also like Ponte de Lima and want to check it out. If we’re in a smaller city we might be able to get a little house with a yard. Living in an apartment has been fine, but a house has its draws too.

All of this to say that we just booked a trip up to Northern Portugal in the fall. We will be staying in a house in Barcelos for just under 2 weeks. We’re definitely going to Viana do Castelo and Ponte de Lima. I want to go back to Guimaraes and I’m sure we’ll add a few more places to look at. Braga is still very much on our list, but with the car we would probably choose somewhere a little further from city center since apartments in the city center are getting more expensive.

Tomar and Festa dos Tabuleiros

Festa dos Tabuleiros is a festival in Tomar that takes place every 4 years. I first read about it a few months ago and when I saw that it’s happening this year I knew we had to go. We have been looking for a reason to go back to Tomar and this seemed like the perfect one. The festival takes place over 10 days in July. Since Leiria Kids is next weekend, we decided that today was the perfect day for Tomar.

We really love Tomar and were wondering why we didn’t move there. Then we started looking at temperatures and figured it out pretty quickly. About an hour ago we were walking in Tomar and my watch said it was 90 degrees, or 32 celcius. We just got back to Leiria and it’s 75 or 23 here, so quite a big difference. And it must be even hotter in Tomar now. Tomar is a beautiful city, but it’s hot and there isn’t a ton of shade outside of the park there.

Anyway, we made it to Tomar in time for the parade at 10 this morning. Today was the kids parade and they were all so adorable. I’m glad we were able to see the parade. When I look at pictures on Google I see lots of pictures of beautifully decorated streets, but we didn’t see any of those today. Then again, we didn’t walk around town all that much either. We walked to the parade and then we went across the street to the park. They had some bouncy houses for the kids and they had tons of fun and got some energy out. We were going to get lunch, but everywhere was so crowded so we came home instead.

Sometimes I plan all kinds of things and want to see and do so much, but then the reality when we get there is that it’s just too hot or we’re just too tired. I’m really glad we got to see the parade, and one of these days we will see one the amazing decorated streets. Right now is AguitAgueda up by Aveiro. That’s where they have the street full of umbrellas. We are definitely going to see that before it ends!

If you’re thinking about checking out the Festa dos Tabuleiros I would definitely say to go. We only got to see a tiny part of it. Maybe in 4 years we can come back and see more! Tomar is a beautiful city and always worth a visit.